Journal entry 20:
“After a night in a smoky valley, our gear was covered in particles of falling ash. A dozen or so kilometers of uphill and we found ourselves at a gas station. A great guy from California, who was standing at the checkout, gave us free postcards and some trinkets. Our throats were itchy from the omnipresent smoke, and the day was mega hot. The next stop was a pub by the road, where a great waitress made sure we ate the best grilled cheese ever. We stopped by the river to cool down and do some laundry. We had a long uphill climb in full sun ahead of us. We underestimated it a bit and we didn’t reach the top of Union Pass until around 8 p.m. A storm was approaching from the direction we were going. A huge bear appeared on the road between us and Olga. We managed to chase it away and we set off to set up a wild camp in gusts of wind. There was stress related to bears because there was nowhere to hang food. In the end, it was left with the bikes far from the camp. From a large cloud, a little rain.”